Thursday, October 2, 2014

Official Website is Up

Hi to all our loyal customers
Please proceed & make your purchase at our official website CLICK HERE.
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We'll respond to you as soon as possible

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Salam Kepada Semua Pelanggan yang kami hormati,
Sila ke webshop kami KLIK SINI untuk membuat pembelian.
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Friday, July 12, 2013

KAM Snaps in Baby Blue Restocked

We have restocked our Baby Blue (B20) in size 20. 

Email us to purchase SentuhanBayu@gmail.com


Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Why Buy KAM Snap Button from us ?

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  • Discounts on bulk/wholesale orders. 
  • You could mix colors of 1000 sets!! No more restriction of 1000 sets per color to get a bulk discount.
  • Fast shipping for domestic order since we already have our stock in Malaysia
  • Monthly sales and specials.
  • Giveaways which you could join at www.SentuhanBayu.biz
  • You have special order? Please contact us via email sentuhanbayu@gmail.com
KAMsnapsMalaysia.com menawarkan:
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  • Anda boleh campur pelbagai warna untuk 1000 sets!!
  • Penghantaran yang cepat untuk domestik
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  • Giveaways di www.SentuhanBayu.biz
 

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Adding Snaps to Thirsties Duo Diapers

If the aplix on your Thirsties Duo diapers is getting old and worn out or your toddler has learned to undo the velcro, you can easily convert the diaper to a snap closure.


Thirsties Duo Snap Conversion
Tutorial below provided by Take Time to Smell the Roses

 
Upclose photo of the yucky aplix.
 
First you have to take off the existing aplix with a seam ripper.On the Thirsties DUO the aplix is sewn into the edge of the diaper. When you reach the end, take a pair of sharp sewing scissors and cut very close to the edge. Be careful not to cut the edging or your diaper!
 
The diaper after you have removed the aplix.
 
Next you need to decide what size of tabs you will need for your diaper. I did not measure this part. I feel that this is something that each cloth diaper mama needs to decide on depending on the built of her baby. Keep in mind you'll have a little bit used for the seam allowance. You also want to make sure there is enough over lapping the old tabs and doesn't create a thick seam where you want to place a snap. I have leftover PUL that I used to create my tabs with and I also used some scrap fleece inside the tabs just for added thickness. I think that scrap flannel would work just as well for the tabs. You do not need to go buy PUL just for the tabs!

Next step is to sew the sides of the PUL and then slide in the piece of fleece inside.

 Pin the tabs on tucking in the raw edges.

 Sew on the tabs.

Add the snaps to the tabs. I was sent a few of these cute colored snaps so I thought I would make this diaper extra colorful :-)

Re-measure your snaps on the tabs to figure out how far apart you will need to have them on the diaper. Measure and mark where the snaps need to be placed. This was my first diaper to convert so it doesn't look perfect by any means!

 Add snaps.

The Thirsties Duo after conversion!

Diaper Cover and Snap-In Soaker

How to Make a Wool AI2 Diaper Cover
Tutorial below provided by Bella of Musings of an Organic Mama Squirrel


Since wool is naturally waterproof and its not made from plastic (PUL), it seemed like a great natural alternative to the traditional diaper covers. Wool covers are pretty pricey generally so I thought I could make it myself

Supplies:
3/4 yard of outer diaper fabric (I used wool)
20 inches of elastic (1/4 inch)
thread matching the fabric
22 sockets, 4 studs and 26 caps snaps (size 20) matching fabric color
2 sockets, 2 studs, 4 caps (size 20 or size 16) in white
pins, scissors, pen, awl, KAM snap pliers

Step 1:
Make the template for the diaper. I used a GroBaby shell for my template but you can use your favorite diaper cover, or use a template found online. (
Ottobre has a free pattern).
Cut the pattern out and pin it to your fabric. I cut out two copies out of the fabric so the cover would be two sided and the snaps wouldn't touch the baby's skin. To make sure the diaper is even make sure to cut the diaper lengthwise with the fabric fold in the middle.
This is what my cut out fabric looked like:

Step 2:
Use the template found
here or make your own for the snaps. I spaced the snaps 3/4 of an inch apart.
Then using an awl punch holes where the snaps should go in the paper. Placing the template on top of the diaper, mark where the snaps should go with the pen. Then use the awl to punch a hole where the markings on the diaper are.
Use the sockets and caps and with the pliers attach them to the diaper. Be careful to make sure each snap is well centered (it's easiest when you do this with the pliers resting on the floor) otherwise it won't snap when the diaper is finished. The final product should look like this:

Step 3:
If you are making a two-ply diaper, pin the snapped fabric to the unsnapped fabric piece such that the caps are facing outward. Then stitch around the front of the diaper, but only as far as the edges shown in the image below (not past where the elastic will go).
This is so that we can insert snaps for the snap in soakers - you can skip this step if you don't want a snap-in soaker.

The final product when you turn the fabric inside out should look like this with a nice trim on the outside.
Step 4:
Once you turn the diaper right side out, create a template to with two snaps about 2 inches apart and mark it on the diaper (on the side opposite from the snaps but towards the front of the diaper - about 4 inches down). I used size 16 snaps but upon further reflection it might be better to use larger size 20 snaps so they're more secure when snapping the soaker in and out.

In the end you'll have something like this. Notice that the front of the diaper now has lots of snaps on one side and two smaller snaps on the inside with the back of the diaper not yet stitched.

Step 5:
Turn the diaper inside out again and stitch the rest of it around the edge of the diaper except for the top of the diaper. The image below shows all the stitching. Note that there's no stitching on one of the flaps on the upper part of the diaper (so we can turn the diaper right side out again.)

Step 6:
Attach 6 inch pieces of elastic at two places on the diaper. This should span about a foot along the diaper. Attach a 5 inch piece of elastic at the back of the diaper as well.

Step 7:
Turn the diaper inside out and pin around the elastic. This will make 'tunnels' for the elastic. This is a tricky step but take your time with it. I've included several photos to show how to do this.

Step 8:
Once you've stitched around the elastics, you should see this:

Next topstitch around the flaps of the diapers to make it look neater and close up the hole we left to turn the diaper right side out.

Step 9:
Use the same template as before to put two snaps with studs on each of the flaps about an inch in from the edge. You can also put four snaps on each flap if you prefer.

Step 10:
Finally add some bling such as these adorable 'Mommy Made This' tags.


Since this is wool, you should wash by hand, wool diaper care instructions can be found here.

How to Make a Snap-In Soaker
Tutorial below provided by Bella of Musings of an Organic Mama Squirrel
This tutorial shows you how to quickly and easily make a snap in soaker for your wool AI2/Diaper Cover.

Step 1:
Make a template of the snap locations from the cover. Push the awl through the paper.
Step 2:
Fold a birdseye prefold (I used Gerbers)
with the thick part facing out and the two thinner sides folded over each other. (Note: you can use other types of fabric for the soakers such as bamboo, microfleece, terry.) 
You should prewash these before putting in snaps since they tend to shrink in the wash. Then mark the prefold using the template and a pen.

Step 3:
Snap away! Push the snaps through the 2 thinner layers of the prefold that face away from the baby.

 
Congratulations, you're done!  Be careful when snapping and unsnapping them from the cover, you should hold both the soaker and the cover so as not to pull the snaps out. 

How to Turn a Prefold into a Fitted Diaper

How to Turn a Prefold into a Fitted Diaper - Lux Edition
Tutorial provided by Nicole

To start, get your materials together: prefolds, elastic, decorative print (anything goes here ie: flannel, cotton weave, knits--and if you use poly fleece you will essentially end up with an AIO), velour, your pattern.  If using snaps, you'll also need a snap press or pliers and size 20 KAM snaps.
Just a tip: wash all your fabrics (I even wash my elastic!) before cutting to avoid shrinkage issues and to remove any yukky residues left behind from dying, manufacturing and shipping.
01 
Disclaimer: Yep, the prefold I'm using here is stained.. I'm not a stickler for stain removal in dipes, they all eventually come out in the wash and this one has already gone through 2 kids so it's old to boot. And yes, I'm still using my grams ironing board complete with the ratty old stained cover I can't seem to part with - it's clean, just looks crappy.. nevermind it. :)
First, iron your prefold (and the rest of your fabric) - they are so much easier to work with once ironed. Then cut the serged edges off - OR you could seam rip the edges. Any prefold will work, even gerbers, but here I'm using a premium unbleached chinese one.
01
Lay your pattern down over the ironed prefold and trace it out with a washable marker. Make sure to mark your elastic. Trace it out on your decorative print as well and cut both out. I'm using the final edition of the one-size pattern I drafted.
01
When I draft patterns, I don't add seam allowances. Instead I trace it out and cut a quarter inch or so outside the line. This way I can just sew down the line for perfect edges. If you are using or have drafted a pattern with seam allowances, cut right on the line.
Just a tip: when cutting apart an old prefold you may find lint buildup stuck along seams and in corners.  Sweep it all out to maximize bulk reduction.
01
The excess will make the soaker.  Let's start here.
01
Open it up on the fold and press.
01
Depending on your pattern, you may have more or less than I do here. Define an even rectangular shape out of the scraps, stack them together and stitch down one of the short ends.
01
Open it up, lay flat and press. Here's your soaker panel.
08
Time to break out the velour! Or whatever fabric you have handy, but let's face it - velour is softest and squishously yummiest to use - hence the Lux! Cut out 2 rectangles the same size as the soaker panel.
09
Place the velour right sides together and top with the soaker panel, pin three sides together and sew.
10
Trim off the excess (anytime you are going to turn and topstitch you wanna reduce the bulk as much as possible). Turn it right side out.
11
I like to do a 3-step zig-zag stitch down the center of the pad to avoid shifting during washing, then topstitch.
12
Center the soaker panel where you want it on the right side (or the side without the pattern lines) of the prefold.
14
Attach it with a tight zig-zag stitch twice over.
15
Depending on your pattern and the size/brand of your prefold, you may want or need to extend the wings. Since I am using my one-size fitted I want the wings to match so I'm adding some velour and you can do the same. Just lay the prefold over the decorative diaper cut and cut the excess out of velour, making sure to account for seam allowance.
13
Pin them on and stitch right sides together.
16
Press the seams toward the velour and stitch down for added strength.
17
You can use straight stitch, but I think a zig-zag stitch will prevent fraying better.
18
Next you'll want to trim away some excess bulk at the back of the prefold where the elastic will go.
19
Just separate the layers in the center, clip about 3/4 of an inch on each side and trim away.
20
Center your decorative print over the prefold and pin. I've used a snuggle flannel here with an awesome print that was graciously sent to me by my friend Suzie!
21
You are not going to stitch down the front, instead leave the entire length open for turning. I always pin to prevent shifting while sewing, especially with knits. Stitch down the line, unless you used a pattern with a seam allowance. In that case, use whatever seam allowance the pattern calls for.
22
When you are done stitching, trim away the excess outside the marks you made for the elastic. This will leave seam allowance only where the elastic will go.
23
Separate the layers of the remaining seam allowance leaving only 2 or 3 layers of the prefold and trim away the rest. This will remove the bulk and allow the elastic to stretch and relax to its full extent when tacked down. I find 2 layers is sufficient, but if you are using something very old and worn you may want to use 3.

ETA: After some thought, I decided clipping away the outer layer of the remaining seam allowance could cause some fraying - NOT that I had any, I'm just always thinking of how to improve things - so instead clip away everything BUT the outer and inner layer.. just in case!
24
Here is what it should look like when done trimming.
25
I like to tack elastic down the seam allowance using the 3-step zig-zag stitch. Tack the end down by going back and forth a few times then stretch it pulling tightly to the end of the exposed seam allowance. Be sure to go back and forth over the opposite end as well.
26
Here is what it should look like with both the leg and back elastic in place. This is also what it looks like when my cat refuses to get off the ironing board. :)
27
Turn it out, press if you like (and I do like to because I find I end up with crisper edges) and topstitch around the front and back wings. I do not topstitch around the leg elastic in this particular design because the bulk of the prefold will end up hindering full usage of it.
To finish, lay the front opening flat, press and trim any uneven edges. Then just close it up with a tight zig-zag stitch twice over.
28
Here is the inside, you may end up with a shorter or longer soaker panel depending on your pattern. I find longer is better because you can fold it up in front for boys or in half for girls!
29
Here is the outside laid flat.
Just a tip: Never wash using a heavy duty spin cycle. Diapers can fray and get ruined. (Found that one out the hard way!)
30
All pinned up in front.
31
If you notice, one of the benefits to not topstitching around the elastic is that the decorative print ends up rolling in, creating a softer leg casing in most cases!
32
33
34

A few snap tips!
First tip: if you are using a premium-quality prefold it is going to be thick! Sometimes that initial ironing has worn off by the time you are finished and the prefold has quilted back up again! And sometimes ironing it doesn't seem to get it squished down enough, so my tip here is to wet it! You can even use your iron. Just squirt the front where the snaps will go, stretch it out and flatten with your hand. If it's still stubbornly quilty, add a bit more water and run the hot iron over it again. THIS is crucial. If you just add the snaps, weather with a press or pliers, the likelihood of them popping out over that thick area is high. I wasted quite a few snaps when I first snapped them!  (KAMsnaps: You can also just use our long-prong snaps.)
And the second tip is for perfect snap placement. Sure, you can use a template and mark out where you want your snaps with a washable marker but I've had mixed results with that method and I decidedly don't like it. I like to use 2 snaps on each wing (I know some of the expensive fitteds use 3 but I've really found that to be excessive). I fold the back of the diaper in half and line up the wings. Then with my awl (or in this case, one of my professional cuticle pushers.. haha) I poke 2 holes straight through both wings.
snaptut01
snaptut02
This gives me perfect and even snap placement on the wings. They are generally 2 inches apart, but depending on how you do the wings (ie; if you have to extend them) you may not be able to put them exactly 2 inches apart (since you wont be able to get a snap through the extension seam).
Next I fold the front (that I've flattened out as much as possible) in half to find the center and poke a hole straight through about half an inch in. 
snaptut03
snaptut04
This puts the center snaps about an inch apart. Next I attach the first wing snap to the center snap closest to it and line the wing up along the diaper. Then I flip the diaper over, locate where the second wing snap is with the 'awl' and push it through.
snaptut05
snaptut06
Then I place a snap between those 2 and continue in that fashion to the end. You could also fold the front down and add snaps to make it a true snapped one-size.
snaptut07
snaptut08
Also, I do not snap the soakers. If you have ever tried to replace elastic in a turned and topstiched diaper with a snapped in soaker, you know exactly why! It's no fun at all.
Onto the fluff n' action shots!
A Spongebob cotton weave and a Hello Kitty cotton knit!
SBnHK 
SB01
Polyester knit.
brag07
Shown here with a Zorb core soaker sandwiched between hemp terry and microfleece.
brag08
Cotton wovens.
brag06
brag04

Shown here with a Zorb core soaker sandwiched between aqua velour.
brag05
And another Hello Kitty cotton knit!
brag01 brag03